That lethargy is a personal failing of mine should be clear to anyone who has a passing acquaintance with this blog. To counteract this I have resolved to maintain my dizzying one-posting-a-month average with a note on a couple of Italian reds tasted recently.
First up is a Nebbiolo d'Alba 2006 by Umberto Fiore from Marks and Spencer at 10.49. Nebbiolo is the native Piedmontese grape used to make Barolo and Barbaresco. Obviously at this price you aren't going to get any of the complexity associated with these great wines, but this is good stuff and an ideal way for people to find out that they don't like Barolo without dropping 60 euro! For me Nebbiolo is more of a head wine than a heart wine, meaning that very few people will experience love at first sip with this varietal. High acidity and gum wrenching tannins generally eviscerate whatever fruit filled enjoyment lies at the heart of the wine. Nebbiolo is hard work and definitely requires food, but if you- and your wallet- persevere you will be rewarded with some of the most complex wines the world has to offer. That is not to say that this sub 11 snots gem is going to fill you with wonderment, but it is a perfect illustration of the contrast between cherry. raspberry and sloes and mouth drying tannins which lie at the heart of this king of italian grapes. I recently used this in the Piedmontese classic Stracotto al Barolo, a pot roasted beef traditionally braised in a sauce of onion, carrot, celery, barolo and stock and it was fantastic. Have to admit that I served the meat with a 1996 Aldo Conterno Gran Bussia though!
Next up is another great value Marks and Spencer's Italian, a Friuli Merlot 2007 from Arigo Bidoli 14.99, currently reduced to 11.79. Friuli, in the very far east of Northern Italy is home to some of the most aromatic white wines in all of Italy, but good red wines are also produced here. This is a lovely Italianate Merlot, where the juiciness of the varietal are held in check by the cool climate in which it is produced. No Chilean Merlot jaminess here but rather cherry, plums and a hint of vanilla from 10 months in French oak. This is an absolute steal at 11.79, and I consider it very good value at the regular price of 14.99.
Yet more Marks and Spencer's Nebbiolo with a Renato Ratti Langhe Nebbiolo 2008. The late Renato Ratti was amongst the first innovators in Barolo in the 1970s, and made a great contribution to both winemaking in the Langhe and the mapping and classification of the great Barolo vineyards. He experimented with shorter alcoholic fermentation and more controlled malolactic fermentation and limiting traditional wood aging, all in the aim of making more appealing, fresher, rounder and younger-drinking wines. Their Langhe Nebbiolo 2008 is a gorgeous, early drinking Nebbiolo full of cherry and raspberry, the dryness in the finish is tempered by a hint of oak. This is lovely stuff and has great complexity for a wine at this price point. Thoroughly recommended.
For all of you who think that I am a northern Italian whore from M&S, I will now confuse you with the inclusion of two Tuscan wines from O'Brien's and Sheridans Cheesemongers respectively. First up is the San Felice Chianti Classico Reserva, Il Grigio 2005, O'Briens 17.45. Don't let the Tintoretto on the label fool you, this is good. Medium to full bodied Chianti from select parcels on the estate. The nose is full of cherry and dusty tea, with some vanilla too. Highly enjoyable. Serve with roast pork or a strip loin steak.
Finally, an unbelievable Rosso di Montalcino from Canaliccio di Sopra, Sheridan's, 22.00. Rosso di Montalcino is all too often a mere cash cow for Brunello di Montalcino producers, who have to wait 3-4 years after the vintage before they are permitted to sell their Brunellos. These lesser wines can be overpriced for what they are, as is often the case with regions where producers are used to getting a premium for their main, big name wines. This is not the case here, Canaliccio di Sopra's Rosso di Montalcino is the quintessence of Sangiovese. Ripe red cherry fruit with a touch of tea chest and a refreshing acidity. Plato would put it in his cave under sangiovese. I can't wait to try Canaliccio di Sopra's Brunello di Montalcino 2005, which Sheridans also carry. This is perfect main event dinner party wine and worth every penny of the 22 euro. Can't recommend this highly enough. Serve with hard sheep's milk cheeses such as Ardi Gasna, or roast pork.
