Yannick Amirault is widely regarded as one of the best red wine producers in the Loire.Yet his wines remain affordable and are a hot tip for anyone presented with a terrifying tome of a wine list in Relais et Chateaux restaurants. Guilbaud's used to list some 1995's but don't seem to have any left.
Yannick took over the 3.4 hectare domaine from his grandfather in 1977, and has built it up to 19 hectares today. Yannick's son Benoit joined the enterprise in 2003, and the pair are currently in the process of converting the domaine for organic certification.
Amirault makes a number of different cuvees of Bourgeuil, and St Nicholas de Bourgeuil- all from 100% Cabernet Franc. The fruity La Coudraye, La Mine, La Source and Le Rose are from sandy soils; the heavier, more serious Le Grand Clos is from clay-silex; and La Petite Cave, Les Quartiers and Les Malagnes are from and sand and clay mixture.
The wines are in short supply, so much so that Irish agents Sheridans/ Grapecircus were unable to secure any 2005s whatsoever despite having bought a large quantity of 2004s. Sheridans have just sold out of Le Grand Clos 2004, but still have some of the lighter, cheaper, and less interesting La Coudraye 2006 (16.95) in stock. This cuvee conforms more to light and fruity, chill it if you like, Loire red than the more serious Le Grand Clos. I think La Cave may still have a couple of bottles of Le Grand Clos 2004 on their list. Visitors to the Grand Epicerie in Paris can stock up on a wide range of Amirault's wines at very reasonable prices ( from 9 euro upwards).
2004 was not a decent but not fantastic vintage for Loire reds, nowhere near as ripe as 2005 or 2003 and probably on a par with 2002. Then again it wasn't a total wash-out and maybe you get more a sense of red Loire from an goodish vintage, than from a blockbuster year like 2003. Enough decent weather to get rid of dilute character and serious greeness, but not sufficient heat that you would never guess Loire. Think 2004 Bordeaux vs 2005. High levels of ripeness in 2006 prior to rain in September saved the harvest from washout. I would avoid red Loire 2007s, probably 2008s. 2009 is supposed to be savagely good, on a par with 2005 according to initial reports.
Anyway suffice to say that the Grand Clos 2004 (22.95) was just coming into its own. I tasted this a few years ago and it was good, but far too young. Now it had blackberry fruit with a hint of briar attached, restrained oak (2nd uses barriques from Chateau Margaux), smokey/ cigar box and some nice secondary characteristics starting to come through. Too bad this is the last bottle! Went very well with the huge veal cutlet from the butcher's in Donnybrook, which cost almost as much as the wine.
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