Fattoria San Lorenzo's Irish importer, Enrico Fantasia, has just returned from the Marche and gave me a hot tip that this wine was far more complex than he had initially thought, and is drinking superbly at the moment. He said that after a few hours in the decanter the Sangiovese aromas take over from the fruity Montepulciano. Such was the depth, complexity and elegance that it could be mistaken for a good standard Brunello.
The front-label also features a large Durer-esque rabbit, making it the ideal choice for Easter Sunday lunch. Unfortunately my taxonomist brother was able to clearly identify the aforesaid bunny as a hare, and I was back to relying on the quality of the wine alone to sway the punters.
Vigna Burello is a blend of 60% Montepulciano and 40% Sangiovese from the Rosso Piceno region of the Marche, on Italy's Adriatic coast. Fattoria San Lorenzo are better known for their white Verdicchio di Castelli di Jesi cuvees than for their reds, but the Burello is simply fantastic. Fattoria San Lorenzo produce just 5000 bottles a year. Grapes from 30 year old vines, grown with a south-east exposition are fermented in open vats, then macerated for 25 days. The wine is then aged in 28 hl botte before bottling.
2005 was a good vintage in the Marche. God had wrung out the clouds over Chianti and Brunello so that there was little rainfall to spoil the fun in Rosso Piceno.
The result is medium bodied, round and polished. Complex with lots of leathery cherry, tea and a touch of liquorice/ aniseed. bright acidity and long finish. The alcohol (13.5%) is discernable, but in balance. Perfect with fatty meats and sheep's milk cheeses.
Vigna Burello, Fattoria San Lorenzo, Rosso Piceno 2005 23.70 from Sheridans Cheesemongers, and selected retailers nationwide.
A serious bargain for an Italian wine of this quality. Highly recommended.
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