Yes Chillin, it's been a while but the least popular blog on the internet is back.
Tasted a delightful Kreydenweiss Pinot Blanc Kritt 2008 (12.99 from O'Briens) and it is goodly stuff. SCABFEST ALERT FOR MONTH OF AUGUST THIS FINE JUICE IS AVAILABLE FOR 11.69, a whopping 13cents more than if you went to Andlau and bought it at the cellar door. His other wines are also reduced in price, although are, I believe, still marginally cheaper in the French Paradox of Ballsbridge.
Marc Kreydenweiss is undoubtedly one of the top producers in Alsace today- he also has a domaine in Costiere de Nimes and a burgeoning negoce business in the Southern Rhone. Based in Andlau, closer to Strasbourg than Colmar, Kreydenweiss is a long-time proponent of biodynamism. I had the pleasure of visiting Andlau one Sunday during their 'Fete de la Musique'. We had driven for a hung-over hour with the express purpose of tasting chez Kreydenweiss but arrived to find the place closed. We soon entered in to the spirit of the festival though, dancing to the sounds of the local tuba band- obviously this didn't happen and we took a snot and left.
I have tasted a number of his Alsace wines over the years. The GC Kastelberg Riesling is fabulous stuff, the 1997 was one of the wines that really got me into Alsace in the first place. I've never been as convinced by the GC Wiebelsberg Riesling and Clos du Val du l'Eleon( a 50/50 blend of Riesling and Pinot Gris). Having said that I haven't tasted any vintages more recent than 2002.
Kreydenweiss is known amongst Alsace nerds for his use of malolactic fermentation- the conversion of harsh malic acids (think green apples) into lactic acid( think more gentle acidity in milk). This is unusual in Alsace, particularly in Riesling. I didn't know this when tasting the wines mentioned above, and couldn't discern it in the Kritt. Kreydenweiss's wines are also remarkable for having attractive modern labelling. Many Alsace labels look like they were designed by the fella who did the Furhrer's birthday cards, making for a hard sell amongst the German wine hating public.
Kreydenweiss's wines are expensive in France. Bettane and Desseauve quote near to fifty euro a bottle for the 2007 Kastelberg, which is at the very punchy end for dry Alsace riesling. I was therefore surprised to see his wines so fairly priced in O'Briens ranging from 12.99 for the Kritt Pinot Blanc, up to 29.95 for the GC Wiebelsberg Riesling. These are the same or cheaper than the wines are generally listed en France.
The name Kritt refers to a non-grand cru terroir where Kreydenweiss grows Gewurz and Pinot Blanc. Kreydenweiss produces less than 17,000 bottles of Pinot Blanc a year from this stony, iron rich site. The Kritt Pinot Blanc 2008 is zesty with lovely hints of white flowers, pears and a touch of honey in the background. On the palate it is weighty and round, but with lots of lively acidity and zestiness to keep things from getting embarrassing. There is also a nice spicy element in the finish. This is very good stuff and very worth a scab-tastic 13 bucks.
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