I had quite the boozy weekend, and very nice it was too.
Sunday lunch started with some delightful Jean Paul Schmitt Gewurztraminer Classic 2007 from Alsace. Although not a young producer Schmitt has started to make inroads with a certain American gentleman in recent years and is on the up and up. This came from From the Vineyards Direct and is good value at 16.95. Schmitt uses a clever volume control icon on the back label of his wines ranging from dry to sweet to indicate the style of wine the consumer can expect FELLOW ALSACE PRODUCERS PLEASE TAKE NOTE!! This was off dry with a nice bitter/ spice aspect.
Roast rib of beef, with Monsieur pommes de terres et al was accompanied by:
Chateauneuf du Pape, 2003 Domaine de la Charbonniere (regular cuvee). I first tasted this about three years ago and was surprised how much I liked it- my inner wine snob had told me that such a high alcohol wine from a vintage as hot as 2003 wouldn't be the sort of thing we'd really go for.
Domaine de la Charbonniere are tipped by the aforementioned American gentleman as one of the best value in the Southern Rhone. Ripe, sweet fruit and a leathery note, this has aged nicely with a nice pruney/ dried fig element. Good stuff. Celtic Whiskey Shop stock a large range of their wines, all at very fair prices. The regular CNP Rouge 2006 is 27.99, and available for even less if you buy a mixed case.
Gigondas Terre des Anes, Montirius 2005 is another big Southern Rhone wine. This fella weighs in at 15% and is a blend of Grenache/ Mourverdre. This was the last of six bottles I bought during my heyday as a Celtic Tiger millionaire. Again this is a style of wine which I would have traditionally purported not to like, but Jaysus 'tis good stuff. Lots of garrigue-y fruit on the nose, with a developing gamey/ leather note. Far fuller bodied, with more tannic grip than the CNP and fruit not as sweet. This fella was crying out for leg of lamb with anchovy tomatoes and peppers. A lovely wine, but not quite up to the level of the CNP. A stonker nonetheless. Alas now difficult to get, a couple of sad bottles of 04 in Mortons in Ranelagh for €29.95.
To finish us off my brother sneakily produced a bottle of JL Chave 'Mon Coeur' Cotes du Rhone 2007. This is from the negotiant wing of world famous Northern Rhone producer Jean Louis Chave of Hermitage. The grapes are a blend of Grenache Syrah bought in from Rasteau, Valearas and Vinsobres. The Chave negotiant wines are made to be good examples of their particular appelation, and this far excelled expectations. This had berry fruit and spice, with a game-y note that reminded me of venison. The Syrah was very much in evidence with that particular blackcurrant vicks flavour that you sometimes get in Rhone Syrahs. Again this is difficult to get here but Berry Bros appear to have less than a case in stock. €15.00 from Berry Bros and worth every penny. Was lovely with the Chaource AOC bloomy rinded cow's cheese from Sheridans. The Chave Offerus St Joseph is a seriously good wine for the price, and their negotiant Hermitages are fantastic value given what you pay for standard Hermitage. All from Berry Bros, although you'll have to ask them to send from the UK.
All in all a very pleasant Sunday, with all the wines showing well. People's champion was the CNP but I think the Chave CDR would be hard to beat for value.
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Tescos Finest Cremant d'Alsace 8.99
Sick of your stupid scabby friends offering you a glass of champagne and filling your vessel with headache-mania 10 euro prosecco? Then get your scabby skates down to Tesco and pay just 8.99 for this lovely 100% Riesling fizz.
Just like Champagne the secondary fermentation in Cremant d'Alsace takes place in bottle. The wine then spends 15 months on lees before disgorgement (the minimum period permissible in Champagne but pretty good vs requirements for other traditional method sparkling wines at this price point like Cava). The amount of time spent on lees is a major determinate in the complexity of the fizz, and all things being equal the longer the better. As the lees ( the dead yeasts which produced the CO2 for the fizz in the first place) break down they release 'autolytic' toasty, biscuity flavours. It is generally held that humans can't taste these autolytic under 24 months, but they can still lend complexity.
This is lovely fresh peach and citrus, but is still clearly Riesling. Serve it as an aperitif alongside smoked salmon. A serious bargain at this price, and probably being sold at or near cost- as champagne closure duty alone plus VAT comes to 6.00.
Just like Champagne the secondary fermentation in Cremant d'Alsace takes place in bottle. The wine then spends 15 months on lees before disgorgement (the minimum period permissible in Champagne but pretty good vs requirements for other traditional method sparkling wines at this price point like Cava). The amount of time spent on lees is a major determinate in the complexity of the fizz, and all things being equal the longer the better. As the lees ( the dead yeasts which produced the CO2 for the fizz in the first place) break down they release 'autolytic' toasty, biscuity flavours. It is generally held that humans can't taste these autolytic under 24 months, but they can still lend complexity.
This is lovely fresh peach and citrus, but is still clearly Riesling. Serve it as an aperitif alongside smoked salmon. A serious bargain at this price, and probably being sold at or near cost- as champagne closure duty alone plus VAT comes to 6.00.
Monday, December 6, 2010
The Wines of Street Fighter 2
This one has been weighing on my mind for some time, but which wines/ grapes best represent the various characters in Street Fighter 2?
Here are some initial thoughts on the matter:
Blanka: I had thought that his accessibility, and exoticism made him quite like Gewurztraminer, but upon reflection I think he is more like New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Again he has an instant appeal, he is both green and exotic, and his electric shock move represents the high acidity of sauvignon blanc. Ultimately he is a one dimensional character though, and gamers soon tire of the repetitive nature of his moves.
Eddy Honda: Is a trickier proposition, although the thinking operates along similar lines. He is a red wine and fleshy with it. He is also a simplistic character to play with, having a few crappy moves and is not capable of greatness. Maybe he is something like a Dolcetto, instantly appealing but uninteresting when compared to other characters. There may also be some argument in favour of his being either Grenache or Gewurztraminer.
Ken and Ryu: These guys are universally popular with players of Street Fighter 2, yet their popularity is justified as they are certainly two of the best characters in the game. I think they are probably- in no particular order Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
Guile: Annoying and American. Popular with some people, but really fairly limited. Zinfandel?
Dalsam: Undoubtedly represents Riesling. Capable of some of the greatest moves in the game but generally unpopular with people who go for Ken and Ryu as he is more complicated to master.
Chun-Lee: Very tricky. As a female character she should really be a white varietal, but nothing really fits. Maybe she is Merlot. Dismissed as one dimensional but capable of being the best character of them all.
Zhangief: I had thought that Zhangief was Nebbiolo, but this is too flattering. Zhangief's 360 joypad move is just impossible to do, whereas Nebbiolo is capable of being mastered. Maybe he is more like Baga from Portugal, which is generally fairly undrinkable due to massive drying tannins and high acidity. Difficult to love unless you are very, very dedicated ( or drink the wines of Luis Pato!)
Is this odd?
I haven't included any of the extra level characters- but they are fairly useless and no obvious pairing really jumps out- although there is a Spanish/ latin character named Vega which should be easy.
Here are some initial thoughts on the matter:
Blanka: I had thought that his accessibility, and exoticism made him quite like Gewurztraminer, but upon reflection I think he is more like New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Again he has an instant appeal, he is both green and exotic, and his electric shock move represents the high acidity of sauvignon blanc. Ultimately he is a one dimensional character though, and gamers soon tire of the repetitive nature of his moves.
Eddy Honda: Is a trickier proposition, although the thinking operates along similar lines. He is a red wine and fleshy with it. He is also a simplistic character to play with, having a few crappy moves and is not capable of greatness. Maybe he is something like a Dolcetto, instantly appealing but uninteresting when compared to other characters. There may also be some argument in favour of his being either Grenache or Gewurztraminer.
Ken and Ryu: These guys are universally popular with players of Street Fighter 2, yet their popularity is justified as they are certainly two of the best characters in the game. I think they are probably- in no particular order Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
Guile: Annoying and American. Popular with some people, but really fairly limited. Zinfandel?
Dalsam: Undoubtedly represents Riesling. Capable of some of the greatest moves in the game but generally unpopular with people who go for Ken and Ryu as he is more complicated to master.
Chun-Lee: Very tricky. As a female character she should really be a white varietal, but nothing really fits. Maybe she is Merlot. Dismissed as one dimensional but capable of being the best character of them all.
Zhangief: I had thought that Zhangief was Nebbiolo, but this is too flattering. Zhangief's 360 joypad move is just impossible to do, whereas Nebbiolo is capable of being mastered. Maybe he is more like Baga from Portugal, which is generally fairly undrinkable due to massive drying tannins and high acidity. Difficult to love unless you are very, very dedicated ( or drink the wines of Luis Pato!)
Is this odd?
I haven't included any of the extra level characters- but they are fairly useless and no obvious pairing really jumps out- although there is a Spanish/ latin character named Vega which should be easy.
Good Lord above, Chanson Meursault 2007
Once again I am the spit-roasted whore of O'Briens and Chanson, and yet all I have is an O'Briens loyalty card. Their Meursault 2007 is currently on offer for 24.99, down from an unattainable 39.99, it may represent the bargain of the year at this price. Given that you can pay 24.99 for Bourgogne Blanc from a posh producer- in this regard check out Simon Bize's Bourgogne Perrieres 2007, or Chateau de Puligny's Clos du Chateau Bourgogne Blanc 2007- both are fab.
As noted before in this blog Chanson has recently transformed from one of the true crud-fests of the Cote d'Or to take its place along side the very top negotiant houses in Beaune.
This is a more crystalline, razor-edged Meursault-style than many of the butter-fests out there, spending 11 months in oak. It has that crisp 07 acidity and is all the better for it. Loads of acidity, minerality and finesse, with citrus, some honey and nuttiness too. Their website notes that the grapes come from four different plots of vineyards, bought from select vignerons (winemakers). Two are located in mid-slope and give finesse and minerality, the other two are closer to the village giving more depth and richness.
In short this is fantastically good, and performs the most ridiculous ballet on your palate. Be careful though as it needs a good hour in the decanter to give up any of its saucier details. I didn't decant mine but it only really opened up towards the end of the second evening. Serve it with white fish in creamy sauce, or lobster.
Seriously recommended, possibly my Christmas day wine depending on how the mugging goes!
As noted before in this blog Chanson has recently transformed from one of the true crud-fests of the Cote d'Or to take its place along side the very top negotiant houses in Beaune.
This is a more crystalline, razor-edged Meursault-style than many of the butter-fests out there, spending 11 months in oak. It has that crisp 07 acidity and is all the better for it. Loads of acidity, minerality and finesse, with citrus, some honey and nuttiness too. Their website notes that the grapes come from four different plots of vineyards, bought from select vignerons (winemakers). Two are located in mid-slope and give finesse and minerality, the other two are closer to the village giving more depth and richness.
In short this is fantastically good, and performs the most ridiculous ballet on your palate. Be careful though as it needs a good hour in the decanter to give up any of its saucier details. I didn't decant mine but it only really opened up towards the end of the second evening. Serve it with white fish in creamy sauce, or lobster.
Seriously recommended, possibly my Christmas day wine depending on how the mugging goes!
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Il Grigio Chianti Classico Reserva reduced to 15.99
Just a quick note to say that O'Brien's have reduced San Felice's Il Grigio Chianti Classico Reserva 2005 from a princely 17.45 to a pauper-ish 15.99. This cheeky bearded gentleman is reviewed below. Ninety points from Wine Spectator, five stars rating from Decanter and, most importantly, a big Christmas tickle from the Fenster. Get your scabby chops around this fella, you won't regret it.
Monday, October 11, 2010
Five Good Italian Reds (some quite scabby)
That lethargy is a personal failing of mine should be clear to anyone who has a passing acquaintance with this blog. To counteract this I have resolved to maintain my dizzying one-posting-a-month average with a note on a couple of Italian reds tasted recently.
First up is a Nebbiolo d'Alba 2006 by Umberto Fiore from Marks and Spencer at 10.49. Nebbiolo is the native Piedmontese grape used to make Barolo and Barbaresco. Obviously at this price you aren't going to get any of the complexity associated with these great wines, but this is good stuff and an ideal way for people to find out that they don't like Barolo without dropping 60 euro! For me Nebbiolo is more of a head wine than a heart wine, meaning that very few people will experience love at first sip with this varietal. High acidity and gum wrenching tannins generally eviscerate whatever fruit filled enjoyment lies at the heart of the wine. Nebbiolo is hard work and definitely requires food, but if you- and your wallet- persevere you will be rewarded with some of the most complex wines the world has to offer. That is not to say that this sub 11 snots gem is going to fill you with wonderment, but it is a perfect illustration of the contrast between cherry. raspberry and sloes and mouth drying tannins which lie at the heart of this king of italian grapes. I recently used this in the Piedmontese classic Stracotto al Barolo, a pot roasted beef traditionally braised in a sauce of onion, carrot, celery, barolo and stock and it was fantastic. Have to admit that I served the meat with a 1996 Aldo Conterno Gran Bussia though!
Next up is another great value Marks and Spencer's Italian, a Friuli Merlot 2007 from Arigo Bidoli 14.99, currently reduced to 11.79. Friuli, in the very far east of Northern Italy is home to some of the most aromatic white wines in all of Italy, but good red wines are also produced here. This is a lovely Italianate Merlot, where the juiciness of the varietal are held in check by the cool climate in which it is produced. No Chilean Merlot jaminess here but rather cherry, plums and a hint of vanilla from 10 months in French oak. This is an absolute steal at 11.79, and I consider it very good value at the regular price of 14.99.
Yet more Marks and Spencer's Nebbiolo with a Renato Ratti Langhe Nebbiolo 2008. The late Renato Ratti was amongst the first innovators in Barolo in the 1970s, and made a great contribution to both winemaking in the Langhe and the mapping and classification of the great Barolo vineyards. He experimented with shorter alcoholic fermentation and more controlled malolactic fermentation and limiting traditional wood aging, all in the aim of making more appealing, fresher, rounder and younger-drinking wines. Their Langhe Nebbiolo 2008 is a gorgeous, early drinking Nebbiolo full of cherry and raspberry, the dryness in the finish is tempered by a hint of oak. This is lovely stuff and has great complexity for a wine at this price point. Thoroughly recommended.
For all of you who think that I am a northern Italian whore from M&S, I will now confuse you with the inclusion of two Tuscan wines from O'Brien's and Sheridans Cheesemongers respectively. First up is the San Felice Chianti Classico Reserva, Il Grigio 2005, O'Briens 17.45. Don't let the Tintoretto on the label fool you, this is good. Medium to full bodied Chianti from select parcels on the estate. The nose is full of cherry and dusty tea, with some vanilla too. Highly enjoyable. Serve with roast pork or a strip loin steak.
Finally, an unbelievable Rosso di Montalcino from Canaliccio di Sopra, Sheridan's, 22.00. Rosso di Montalcino is all too often a mere cash cow for Brunello di Montalcino producers, who have to wait 3-4 years after the vintage before they are permitted to sell their Brunellos. These lesser wines can be overpriced for what they are, as is often the case with regions where producers are used to getting a premium for their main, big name wines. This is not the case here, Canaliccio di Sopra's Rosso di Montalcino is the quintessence of Sangiovese. Ripe red cherry fruit with a touch of tea chest and a refreshing acidity. Plato would put it in his cave under sangiovese. I can't wait to try Canaliccio di Sopra's Brunello di Montalcino 2005, which Sheridans also carry. This is perfect main event dinner party wine and worth every penny of the 22 euro. Can't recommend this highly enough. Serve with hard sheep's milk cheeses such as Ardi Gasna, or roast pork.
Monday, August 9, 2010
The Sampler, Islington 2
Another trip to London and another unwilling companion forced through the doors of the Sampler in Islington. This time the victim is my wife, who I have forced to walk from St Paul's for added hatred points. Actually the missus is not that unwilling, particularly after experiencing the joys of good white burgundy last night in the form of Jean Louis Chavy's Puligny Montrachet Les Forestieres 2007. Unfortunately our first sample, a Chassagne Montrachet Vielles Vignes, Domaine Jouard 2007 couldn't live with this level of competition and was dismissed by as ' nice but not really special.' I couldn't really argue with this.
Next up was a banker, Clos Ste Hune 2004. This was initially muted on the nose but opened up in the glass and was full of white peach, petrol and minerals- in a good way. The finish was incredibly long, this will be outrageous in a decade or so.
With the exception of these two above the dry white selection wasn't overly top end. Lots of nice wines if you were sampling to buy, but seeing as I was busy accumulating further millionaire's memoirs we went on to the reds.
First up was Dujac's Gevrey Chambertin 2006, which was obviously too young, lots of cherries and earthiness but I thought lacked the sort of class you'd expect from even entry level wine from this level of producer. Still Jancis gave it 16.5, so perhaps I am a plum fool. Having said that though anything scoring below 16 from JR tends to have negative comments attached. Next up Chapelle Chambertin 1998 from Pierre Damoy, another respected producer and also disappointing for a Grand Cru. My scribble says 'developing, a little short'- a description more apt for a teenage Gary Coleman than a 12 year old Grand Cru Burgundy. There was some nice undergrowth-y stuff going on, but my scabby hand will stay in my scabby pocket.
Next up was a Volnay Santenots 1979 from Clerget ( their website says 1978, but I think it was '79). This was okay, with a tawny colour, very smooth with sweet fruit, but again for what it was... So all in all pretty disappointing red Burgundy but then again the joy of the Sampler is being able to taste wines like this without having to will them into being good just because you have cellared the wine yourself for years or spent a fortune on it.
Things perked up considerably with the Syrahs- for me, not so much for the wife who now sat at a table in the back of the shop sniffing and dismissing each sample with her new catch phrase- 'I hate red wine'.
First up was a Washington State Syrah, L'Ecole No 1 2006. Sixty Four Wines are selling their Cabernet Sauvignon. I am definitely going to check it out because this was lovely. Ripe, round and elegant despite hefty alcohol. I would buy this.
At this point I should declare my love of Northern Rhone Syrah and was fully aroused by the sight of two 1978's from Jaboulet, a Cote Rotie Les Jumelles ( 130 stg a bottle), and a Cornas ( 80 stg) . Weirdly a pub in Leeson Street has two bottles of 1978 Jaboulet Cornas in their diddly aye display, alongside old sewing machines, jugs and faded biscuit boxes. I have never worked out how the hell that happened. Enough nonsense, suffice to say that both wines were superb. It was fascinating to see the difference between the two areas with fully mature wines, from a top vintage. The Cornas still had that road kill, shaved dried coconut thing going on but in a very toned down and elegant way, the Cote Rotie did not but the fruit was similarly sweet and smooth- bloody lovely. I had never tasted a 1978 before and have to say these were fabulous.
Incidentally Michael Broadbent gave this wine five stars in his 'Vintage Wine' tasting note book describing a magnum in 1998 as ' Rich, full and lovely'.
This was going to be a hard act to follow, but I persevered bravely with an Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonello 1998. This had far more developed character than I had expected and was, it seemed, quite similar in profile to the Jaboulet's. I am sure this is heresy, or at least treason, but that is what happened. I wasn't wildly impressed by this, although it had a lot to live up to.
The last red was the best of the lot, a 1983 Penfold's Grange ( 255 stg). I have a traditional aversion to Australian reds which I have, only occasionally managed to overcome. Any hint of eucalyptus and I'll run a mile though. The nose was fabulous, think secondary aromas and a sprinkle of black fruit pastilles. On the palate the wine was full and sweet with a beautiful caramel aspect, and everything in perfect balance. 13% alcohol too. This was so good that even the missus liked it.
Finally, poorer yet wiser I couldn't resist a Clos du Bourg 1989 from Huet. The sweetest honey combined with searing acidity to produce a Vouvray with a long, long finish which I was still tasting walking down the street afterwards. Superb.
Another bloody good trip to the Sampler, highly recommended.
Next up was a banker, Clos Ste Hune 2004. This was initially muted on the nose but opened up in the glass and was full of white peach, petrol and minerals- in a good way. The finish was incredibly long, this will be outrageous in a decade or so.
With the exception of these two above the dry white selection wasn't overly top end. Lots of nice wines if you were sampling to buy, but seeing as I was busy accumulating further millionaire's memoirs we went on to the reds.
First up was Dujac's Gevrey Chambertin 2006, which was obviously too young, lots of cherries and earthiness but I thought lacked the sort of class you'd expect from even entry level wine from this level of producer. Still Jancis gave it 16.5, so perhaps I am a plum fool. Having said that though anything scoring below 16 from JR tends to have negative comments attached. Next up Chapelle Chambertin 1998 from Pierre Damoy, another respected producer and also disappointing for a Grand Cru. My scribble says 'developing, a little short'- a description more apt for a teenage Gary Coleman than a 12 year old Grand Cru Burgundy. There was some nice undergrowth-y stuff going on, but my scabby hand will stay in my scabby pocket.
Next up was a Volnay Santenots 1979 from Clerget ( their website says 1978, but I think it was '79). This was okay, with a tawny colour, very smooth with sweet fruit, but again for what it was... So all in all pretty disappointing red Burgundy but then again the joy of the Sampler is being able to taste wines like this without having to will them into being good just because you have cellared the wine yourself for years or spent a fortune on it.
Things perked up considerably with the Syrahs- for me, not so much for the wife who now sat at a table in the back of the shop sniffing and dismissing each sample with her new catch phrase- 'I hate red wine'.
First up was a Washington State Syrah, L'Ecole No 1 2006. Sixty Four Wines are selling their Cabernet Sauvignon. I am definitely going to check it out because this was lovely. Ripe, round and elegant despite hefty alcohol. I would buy this.
At this point I should declare my love of Northern Rhone Syrah and was fully aroused by the sight of two 1978's from Jaboulet, a Cote Rotie Les Jumelles ( 130 stg a bottle), and a Cornas ( 80 stg) . Weirdly a pub in Leeson Street has two bottles of 1978 Jaboulet Cornas in their diddly aye display, alongside old sewing machines, jugs and faded biscuit boxes. I have never worked out how the hell that happened. Enough nonsense, suffice to say that both wines were superb. It was fascinating to see the difference between the two areas with fully mature wines, from a top vintage. The Cornas still had that road kill, shaved dried coconut thing going on but in a very toned down and elegant way, the Cote Rotie did not but the fruit was similarly sweet and smooth- bloody lovely. I had never tasted a 1978 before and have to say these were fabulous.
Incidentally Michael Broadbent gave this wine five stars in his 'Vintage Wine' tasting note book describing a magnum in 1998 as ' Rich, full and lovely'.
This was going to be a hard act to follow, but I persevered bravely with an Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonello 1998. This had far more developed character than I had expected and was, it seemed, quite similar in profile to the Jaboulet's. I am sure this is heresy, or at least treason, but that is what happened. I wasn't wildly impressed by this, although it had a lot to live up to.
The last red was the best of the lot, a 1983 Penfold's Grange ( 255 stg). I have a traditional aversion to Australian reds which I have, only occasionally managed to overcome. Any hint of eucalyptus and I'll run a mile though. The nose was fabulous, think secondary aromas and a sprinkle of black fruit pastilles. On the palate the wine was full and sweet with a beautiful caramel aspect, and everything in perfect balance. 13% alcohol too. This was so good that even the missus liked it.
Finally, poorer yet wiser I couldn't resist a Clos du Bourg 1989 from Huet. The sweetest honey combined with searing acidity to produce a Vouvray with a long, long finish which I was still tasting walking down the street afterwards. Superb.
Another bloody good trip to the Sampler, highly recommended.
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